Threads of power: lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen

Director's foreword / Susan Weber

Editors' note

Introduction : threads of power / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer

The emergence of lace in early modern Europe. 1. Lace and status : luxury, power, and control in early modernity / Barbara Karl ; 2. Putting a name to a lace : fashion, fame, and the production of printed textile pattern books / Femke Speelberg ; 3. "Monstrous ruffs" and elegant trimmings : lace and lacemaking in early modern Italy / Paula Hohti ; 4. Antwerp, a center of lacemaking and lace dealing, 1550-1750 / Frieda Sorber

Fashion and lace in Spain and the Americas, 1500-1800. 5. The triumph of lace : Spanish portraiture in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries / Amalia Descalzo Lorenzo ; 6. "A desire of being distinguished by an elegant dress is universal" : clothing, status, and convenience in eighteenth-century Spanish America / Mariselle Meléndez ; 7. "A prodigious excess" : lace in New Spain and Peru, ca. 1600-1800 / James Middleton ; 8. "Covered in much fine lace" : dress in the viceroyalty of New Granada / Laura Beltrán-Rubio

The dominance of France, 1660-1790. 9. Lace, an economic factor in France during the reign of Louis XIV / Denis Bruna ; 10. Lace à la mode in France, ca. 1690-1790 / Lesley Ellis Miller

Mechanization and revivalism in the lace industries, 1800-1925. 11. Fashion and the lace industries in France, Belgium, and England, 1800-1900 / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer ; 12. Ahead of the curve : A. Blackborne & Co. and the late nineteenth-century British lace industry / Annabel Bonnin Talbot ; 13. Italy to New York : making historic textiles modern at the Scuola d'Industrie Italiane / Emily Zilber ; 14. A source of inspiration : the Leopold Iklé collection in St. Gallen / Anne Wanner-JeanRichard and Ilona Kos

Innovations in lace, 1900 to today. 15. Fashion and lace since 1900 / Catherine Örmen ; 16. Lace in St. Gallen today : tradition and innovation at Forster Rohner and Jakob Schlaepfer / Introduction by Annina Dosch ; Interview with Tobias Forster, Martin Leuthold, and Hans Schreiber

Illustrated checklist of the exhibition

Glossary / compiled by Kenna Libes.